A dripping faucet is easy to ignore and expensive to leave. The drip wastes water, stains the basin and, if it hides a leak below, can rot a cabinet from the inside. The first job is knowing where the water is coming from.

Where is the faucet leaking?

Where it appears	Usually	What to try
From the spout, even when off	A worn cartridge, washer or valve seat	Replace the cartridge or washers
Around the base of the handle	A worn O-ring or seal	Replace the seals
From under the sink	A supply line, a shutoff valve or the drain	Check connections with a dry paper towel
From the base of the faucet body	A failed gasket	Reseat or replace the faucet

A dry paper towel run along each connection under the sink shows which one is damp. Do that before assuming it is the faucet.

Faucets by type

Single-handle: a cartridge wears out. Replacement is usually quick if the right cartridge is available.
Two-handle compression: a rubber washer wears. Replacement is simple, but the valve seat may need attention.
Touch or pull-down spout: parts are specific to the brand. Ask the plumber whether replacement parts are available.

Dripping or leaking? Describe where the water is and the plumber will tell you what it likely is.

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Hand lifting a faucet cartridge with a blue ring out of a chrome sink faucet — The cartridge sits inside the faucet body and is the part most single handle faucets wear out.

Repair or replace the faucet?

Repair when the faucet is otherwise sound and the part is available.
Replace when the finish is worn, parts are no longer made or the faucet has been repaired before.
Replace with the sink if the sink itself is cracked, stained or leaking at the mounting.

Ask the plumber to price both options. A new faucet and a repaired old one are often close, and the new one resets the clock.

Weak flow from one faucet

If only one faucet is weak, the cause is local. The aerator on the spout can clog with minerals or debris. Unscrew it, rinse it and put it back. If it is still weak, the cartridge or the supply line to that faucet is restricted. If every faucet in the house is weak, the problem is further upstream, and a pressure check is the right next step.

Stiff, loose or squealing faucet handles: cartridge, screw or valve

A stiff handle: a worn cartridge or mineral buildup. Replacing the cartridge usually fixes it.
A loose handle: the set screw or the handle adapter, which a plumber can tighten or replace.
A squeal when the water runs: a worn washer or a partly closed shutoff valve under the sink.

Shower and tub faucets

A tub spout that drips or a shower that will not shut off points to a cartridge or a valve behind the wall. Many have a plain repair: replace the cartridge from the front. Others need the wall opened. Bath tub faucet repair follows the same order: find out whether the drip is at the spout, the handle or the valve before anyone replaces the fixture. If it comes to that, see bathroom valve replacement for what to ask first.

Outdoor hose bibs

A hose bib that drips behind the handle, or leaks into the wall when you use it, needs repair. Water entering the wall behind a hose bib can rot framing and drywall without showing. If the bib leaks only when a hose is attached, the problem is usually at the packing nut. If it leaks inside the wall, it needs a plumber.

Installing a new faucet or sink

A new faucet means disconnecting the old one, cleaning the mounting surface, setting the new one and connecting new supply lines. Ask whether the shutoff valves under the sink are in good shape. A valve that will not close, or leaks when turned, should be replaced at the same visit.

Red basin wrench resting under a sink beside supply lines and shutoff fittings — The tight space under a sink is why a basin wrench exists and why a faucet swap takes longer than it looks.

A new sink is a bigger job. The drain, the trap and often the countertop opening change. Ask who handles the countertop cutout and the caulk, and whether the plumber's price includes them.

The shutoff valves under the sink

Every sink should have a working shutoff on each supply line, so a faucet repair does not mean shutting off the whole house. Old valves seize, and a valve that will not turn or drips when it is moved is worth replacing at the same visit. Ask the plumber to test each one before work begins.

Choosing a replacement faucet: what has to match

The number of holes in the sink or counter: one, two, three or four. A faucet must fit the holes you have, or a deck plate has to cover the extra ones.
The thickness of the deck: some faucets cannot mount on a thick countertop without a longer mounting kit.
The supply connections: the supply lines have to reach, and the shutoff valves have to match their fittings.
The spout height and reach: a tall spout over a shallow sink splashes, and a short spout over a deep one is awkward.

When a leak is more than a faucet

A faucet that leaks only under the sink may be a supply line or a drain connection. If the cabinet floor is soft or stained, water has been there a while. If the stain is on a ceiling below, read tracing a hidden leak.

When a faucet problem cannot wait

Call now: water running from under a sink, or a shutoff that will not close.
Call soon: a drip that fills a cup overnight, or a handle that sticks.
Can wait for a convenient visit: a slow drip at the spout with no damage visible.

For what moves the price of a fixture visit, see fixture repair pricing factors.

Faucet Repair in Sarasota, FL: The Drip, the Leak Underneath and the Valve That Sticks